r7 driver

[stuart]

I just bought an r7 driver but it did not come with the instrutions for the weights. I hit a high fade so am I suppose to set it up for that shot? Or do I set it up for a draw and then the ball will be straighter?

Thanks for any help.

Stuart :(

[Twisted]

google is ur best friend

http://www.taylormadegolf.com/product_detail.asp?pID=14

it's listed right on taylormade's web site....

click on link and look at the bottom right o the picture and select "Weight configurator"

[stuart]

Thanks Twisted, I will check it out.

[guitarman]

I just bought an r7 driver but it did not come with the instrutions for the weights. I hit a high fade so am I suppose to set it up for that shot? Or do I set it up for a draw and then the ball will be straighter?

Thanks for any help.

Stuart :(

I used to own this driver. I think the heavier weight was supposed to be in the heel for a draw bias. I tried it both ways and it didn't make a huge difference for me. I was a slicer. This driver won't work miracles if you have a swing problem. I found that after lessons I was able to hit most drivers fairly straight. I still struggle from time to time with a fade but its not near as bad as it used to be.

[dohboy]

If you hit a high fade, then set it up with the two 12g weights closest to the heel and the two 2g weights closest to the toe. With that setup, you should be hitting a draw which will probably cut back to the right (for a right handed person).

But as Guitarman says, nothing beats a couple of lessons to straighten out that drive.

[guitarman]

If you hit a high fade, then set it up with the two 12g weights closest to the heel and the two 2g weights closest to the toe. With that setup, you should be hitting a draw which will probably cut back to the right (for a right handed person).

But as Guitarman says, nothing beats a couple of lessons to straighten out that drive.

A high fade/slice in my case was the cause of coming in with an open face. Open face caused more loft which gave me the high shots. This is why the weights didn't really work for me.

[stuart]

Thanks All
I took a lesson and the pro fixed me up good. It really is a fade and not a slice. The reason I bought the driver was to try and get more distance off the tee. I have the 540 and hit it just as good. I thought that the r7 might give a bit more distance, but I am only seeing about 5 yards or so. Maybe I was hoping that if I could get it to stay in the air with the weights it might help with the distance.
Anyway I will play a bit with the weights and see what happens.
Thanks to all
Stuart
(p.s. my pro said that the weights were just a gmick anyway.)

[dohboy]

Thanks All
I took a lesson and the pro fixed me up good. It really is a fade and not a slice. The reason I bought the driver was to try and get more distance off the tee. I have the 540 and hit it just as good. I thought that the r7 might give a bit more distance, but I am only seeing about 5 yards or so. Maybe I was hoping that if I could get it to stay in the air with the weights it might help with the distance.
Anyway I will play a bit with the weights and see what happens.
Thanks to all
Stuart
(p.s. my pro said that the weights were just a gmick anyway.)
Some say it's a gimmick, but I did see a difference when I moved the weights.

[guitarman]

Some say it's a gimmick, but I did see a difference when I moved the weights.

I think that if your swing is good you will notice a differnce. Its definitely not enough of a difference to impact on a bad swing.

[ysong00]

I used to own this driver. I think the heavier weight was supposed to be in the heel for a draw bias. I tried it both ways and it didn't make a huge difference for me. I was a slicer. This driver won't work miracles if you have a swing problem. I found that after lessons I was able to hit most drivers fairly straight. I still struggle from time to time with a fade but its not near as bad as it used to be.

yep for sure, you wont see the impact of the weight unless you have a consistent swing. not neccessarily a really good swing, but it needs to be consistent.

i had my r7 quad on super draw bias (at least thats what i call it, with both heavy weights on the outside), but now i switched to low trajectory neutral. I think maybe MWT helped fixed my swing! Either that or its all mental haha

[stuart]

Hi People
Well I did what dohboy said and moved the weights to the back. Hit the ball 10 - 15 yards longer. Thanks to everybody.
Stuart

[Carlton]

Hi People
Well I did what dohboy said and moved the weights to the back. Hit the ball 10 - 15 yards longer. Thanks to everybody.
Stuart

What you've done is added approx 1° of loft to you driver by moving the heavier weights to the rear ports.

[bilinguru]

Sorry to differ with you Carlton, but I don't see how moving more weight to the heel of your club will add loft. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but the draw setup on the R7 gets the lighter toe of the club to come into contact with the ball earlier than the heavier heel which lags slightly behind (we're talking VERY slightly here, but millimeters and microseconds at impact translate into meters down the fairway.)

I've used the R7 for a couple of seasons now and love it. I hit a low draw naturally (which turns into a snap hook if I mishit,) so I've set the weights to promote a high fade - result a longer straighter drive, with less spin which turns into a draw if I mishit it. I also tee the ball higher than I used to because a higher launch angle translates into more distance, or so the experts say.

But the loft of the club is the loft of the club! Lie angles on irons can affect loft, and they DO change over time, which is why good golfers have their lie angles checked frequently. But moving the weight around on your driver, or any other club, does not add or subtract degrees of loft. Think about it. Guys have been using lead tape for years to promote draw or fade trajectories. Are you saying that you can add or subtract loft by sticking a piece of lead tape to the back of your club? Can't be.

[ginrin]

I believe the man is right Bilinguru since effective face angle changes loft as well.What the weights do is change the CG of the head which in turn changes the effective loft.A good example of changing effective loft is Vijay's old TM driver which was 10.5 degrees but the face was opened 6 degrees to fight a hook but played to an effective loft of around 6 degrees.Closing the clubhead increases loft which is why most OEMs will sell drivers with a closed face so the average golfer will hit it straighter.The weights are good for changing swingweights which in turn can change the flex of your shaft.The weights are basically lead tape that can be moved around.Hope this helps

[dohboy]

Hi People
Well I did what dohboy said and moved the weights to the back. Hit the ball 10 - 15 yards longer. Thanks to everybody.
Stuart
If he moved all the weights to the back of the club instead of the two ports closest to the hosel, I think Carlton and Ginrin is right in that the CG has been moved further back resulting in a higher launch angle and thus effectively adding loft to the club.

Closing the clubhead increases loft which is why most OEMs will sell drivers with a closed face so the average golfer will hit it straighter.
Does that not work the other way? That is, closing the club face actually decreases loft?

[Carlton]

Sorry to differ with you Carlton, but I don't see how moving more weight to the heel of your club will add loft.

Stuart said he moved the heavier weights to the rear ports and did not mention moving the heavier weight to the heel or toe to promote either a draw or fade. Moving the heavier weights to the rear ports moves the COG enough to approximate a 1° of added loft. This coming directly from the TM guys when I was fitted. I was told to either get a 9.5° driver and move the heavy weights forward or get an 8.5° and move the weights to the rear.