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glueing heads the easy way with grips on

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  • #16
    Re: glueing heads the easy way with grips on

    Originally posted by tyorke1 View Post
    Sorry , It was posted at work during a break without time to put together , just trying to be helpful and show some guys a cheaper way of doing some basic club work .
    thanks for being helpful tyorke1
    Adams XTD Ti 12.5* / TightLies 2 Ti / Super 9031 Tour / Ping WRX i20 Irons
    Ping WRX Tour Gorge / YES Natalie Putter B-CG / Leupold GX-4 Rangefinder
    Personal Best: 79, hoping for another sub 80 round before the Twilight Zone

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    • #17
      Re: glueing heads the easy way with grips on

      Good info for the budding golfsmith.

      If there's a bit of play from using re-prepped previously pulled shafts or hosels that have been cleaned out a few times, try adding shafting beads (no more than 5% ratio) to the epoxy.

      I've never needed additional hands to line up shaft/grip graphics. Just lay the clubhead on the ground and line it up via eyeball. A piece of masking tape down the back of the shaft and onto the hosel will keep it in place while the epoxy dries. On the shafts eg graphite, where you can't drill out the plugged epoxy from the shaft tip, working the shaft up and down in a clockwise/counterclockwise rotation should help squeeze the trapped air out. I don't like it if there is an air bubble keeping the shaft from being properly seated. That just means that if there's air pushing up the shaft, somewhere in the hosel, there's going to be a void between shaft to hosel contact where epoxy should be and a possible failure point.

      I always butter the inside of the ferrules with epoxy before assembly to reduce the chances of them creeping and turn them down after the epoxy has set.

      Just a small tip for those starting off. Never discard the excess epoxy after you've done your assembly. Instead, let it sit and dry along with the clubs. Use it as a guide to see if your mixture has properly hardened.

      Keep in mind that not all epoxies are created equal. You need one with good shear strength that breaks down with low heat esp if you want to eventually reshaft the head without possibly damaging it ie. composite heads. Also, some hardware store epoxies can be strong enough but they may become brittle when fully cured.
      Last edited by Carlton; Oct 16, 2016, 11:09 PM.

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      • #18
        Re: glueing heads the easy way with grips on

        on the rare occasion you find yourself in a dilemma like this on short notice.
        .350 bore and the replacement shaft has a .335 tip.
        .370 bore hosel, but the shafts you have are .355 taper.

        use open mesh fibreglass wall repair tape to take up the slack.
        and if the tape isn't around you can use cotton sewing thread.
        things change

        Maga Lies Matter

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        • #19
          Re: glueing heads the easy way with grips on

          good points CARLTON, with golftowns going down it's easy to learn to do your own work .

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          • #20
            Re: glueing heads the easy way with grips on

            Originally posted by tyorke1 View Post
            good points CARLTON, with golftowns going down it's easy to learn to do your own work .
            Indeed. I started doing my own work 14-15yrs ago after a store did a messy job replacing the shaft of a brand new 5wood. There was epoxy fingerprint smudges all over the crown of the head and on the shaft. I also hated having to wait a couple weeks for work to get done ie change shaft, replace grips etc, which meant no golf. Ended up taking a couple GolfSmith courses along the way.

            The only thing I leave for the pros is loft/lie bending.

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