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NEED CLUB FITTER'S ADVISE

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  • NEED CLUB FITTER'S ADVISE

    Hello Fellow golfers,

    how do you do?

    I have a club that needs to change shaft due to aged.
    I have used this club more than 10 years now and it is my most trusted(gives me tremendous confident) and royal club(gets job done 110% every time).
    loft is not known but it carries about 200~ 210 yard for me.
    It is 7 wood and composite head from Yonex.

    I am looking to change shaft on this club but this is very different hosel setup than usual, and i just want to know it is doable.
    If it is doable, how to replace shaft and using normal hosel setup using ferrule.
    Please see attached photos.

    I really need your advise!! and really appreciated in advance.

    Thank you.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Hate to break it to you, but that club us a lot older than 10 years old...

    It's a laminate wood from the late 80s or early 90s more than likely. The brass plate held on with the screws are a dead giveaway. The shaft has to be re-whipped (the long hosel piece you see is basically like plasticized string). I don't know of any club maker or fitter who would touch that anymore except for Louisville Golf who still make "modern" persimmon woods. They charge $75 USD + shipping to reshaft with their proprietary graphite.

    Honestly, that club is worth $1 on trade-in and maybe worth $4 at Value Village. I wouldn't even bother spending the money to worry about reshafting it and getting it re-whipped. The money you are going to spend to get it repaired ($100+), just put towards a newer 7wood or hybrid of some sort. I can almost GUARANTEE you that you will get similar, if not better performance, out of a more modern club that you could pick up out of a used bin for less than $100.

    The thing is at least 25 years old. Just put it out of it's misery by keeping in your den as an ode to all the great shots you hit with it or something. I'm being completely honest that this club is not worth even a new grip on it. You are going to spend a boatload of money on a club that isn't worth the price of a can of soda.
    Last edited by Phatchrisrules; May 31, 2018, 07:59 AM.

    Comment


    • #3
      Yonnex adx 200? doable.

      Worth it ? as Chris said.
      Last edited by bl8d; May 31, 2018, 08:07 AM.
      things change

      Maga Lies Matter

      Comment


      • #4
        The hardest part is removing the old shaft without damaging the head.

        You cannot do a normal furrule as the whipping is part of the structural integrity.

        I have done a number of these but you do have to weigh the value.

        Please let me know if I can help.
        Regards
        Dan

        True Length Technology TM
        Awarded 'Best New Fitting Idea - 2007 AGCP'
        True Frequency Technology TM
        - Developer / Owner

        Maltby Clubmaking Academy
        - Master
        Golf Clubmakers Association (GCA)
        - Advanced / Professional
        Professional Clubmakers Society (PCS)
        - Class 'A'

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Phatchrisrules View Post

          Honestly, that club is worth $1 on trade-in and maybe worth $4 at Value Village.
          Sorry to Thread-jack, but taking old clubs to Value Village? Do they really give you 'credits' for them?

          Every great idea starts out as a blasphemy

          Comment


          • #6
            First of all, Thank you for your time and effort to reply.

            I do have lots of shafts sitting around and to me, this club itself worth a lot MORE even thought it IS worth less than a can of soda.

            As TLT Dan states, as the wire whipping is part of the structural integrity, is this means that in the head, it may not have shaft insert depth as current(newer) heads?
            newer heads about an inch( not sure as i never measured before) of space for the shaft to bond with the head.

            Do you guys think it will melt the head since it is composite, if heating process goes wrong? too much heating time or distance with heat gun to the head, etc...

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Big Shooter View Post

              Sorry to Thread-jack, but taking old clubs to Value Village? Do they really give you 'credits' for them?
              No. I meant if the club was donated they'd be praising the Lord if they got $4 for it from someone buying it.

              Comment


              • #8
                lol all true.

                I should say this, can not get rid of it due to the feel. well contact hit from one of these non metal wood is just out of this world feeling.... i really suggest, everyone go to value village and get something like these and try it. that's if you can find one, lol.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by zoombug View Post
                  First of all, Thank you for your time and effort to reply.

                  I do have lots of shafts sitting around and to me, this club itself worth a lot MORE even thought it IS worth less than a can of soda.

                  As TLT Dan states, as the wire whipping is part of the structural integrity, is this means that in the head, it may not have shaft insert depth as current(newer) heads?
                  newer heads about an inch( not sure as i never measured before) of space for the shaft to bond with the head.

                  Do you guys think it will melt the head since it is composite, if heating process goes wrong? too much heating time or distance with heat gun to the head, etc...
                  I understand it's important to you, but you've got two people who do club repair telling you in more polite terms: "don't bother". You don't have to the throw the club away. It's just not worth spending the $100 or whatever on to fix. What happens if you try to fix it and, as Dan says, it gets ruined? Then the club is completely toast. Or what if you reshaft it and all the magic leaves the club? Then what? Then you're out $100, your club is useless to you and/or ruined, and you still need to find a new club to get you to the 200-215 mark.

                  I don't mean to sound negative but I am positive that something, even within the past 15 years, would do the trick for you and for far cheaper than it would be to get this fixed. If it even can be. I say, stick it in some sort of commemorative bag or something and look at it fondly from time to time. Or just play it as is. Is the club broken or have you just decided to reshaft it?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Phatchrisrules View Post

                    I understand it's important to you, but you've got two people who do club repair telling you in more polite terms: "don't bother". You don't have to the throw the club away. It's just not worth spending the $100 or whatever on to fix. What happens if you try to fix it and, as Dan says, it gets ruined? Then the club is completely toast. Or what if you reshaft it and all the magic leaves the club? Then what? Then you're out $100, your club is useless to you and/or ruined, and you still need to find a new club to get you to the 200-215 mark.

                    I don't mean to sound negative but I am positive that something, even within the past 15 years, would do the trick for you and for far cheaper than it would be to get this fixed. If it even can be. I say, stick it in some sort of commemorative bag or something and look at it fondly from time to time. Or just play it as is. Is the club broken or have you just decided to reshaft it?
                    Thanks, Chris.
                    i understand.
                    that is exactly why i post this here as to seek advise how not to ruin this club.
                    as i progress as a golfer or shaft being old, flight from this club, ball goes really high(higher every year) and mostly i can feel the tip twist when contact with ball.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by zoombug View Post
                      First of all, Thank you for your time and effort to reply.

                      I do have lots of shafts sitting around and to me, this club itself worth a lot MORE even thought it IS worth less than a can of soda.

                      As TLT Dan states, as the wire whipping is part of the structural integrity, is this means that in the head, it may not have shaft insert depth as current(newer) heads?
                      newer heads about an inch( not sure as i never measured before) of space for the shaft to bond with the head.

                      Do you guys think it will melt the head since it is composite, if heating process goes wrong? too much heating time or distance with heat gun to the head, etc...
                      you don't want torch heat to reach into the head.

                      the method for these early graphite heads was to cut the shaft off above the hosel and drill the remaing shaft out with a cobalt drill. I specify cobalt because a regular high speed drill bit would loose its edge very quickly. Drill speed for graphite is approx 180 rpm. and wear a mask.
                      the other important thing is to clamp the head in a fixture that itself is clamped down on the drill table. You don't want it to spin into you when/if the drill grabs.
                      things change

                      Maga Lies Matter

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        project for the handyman
                        A pwerful shaft extractor (puller) you can make inexpensively in your home shop

                        things change

                        Maga Lies Matter

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by bl8d View Post

                          you don't want torch heat to reach into the head.

                          the method for these early graphite heads was to cut the shaft off above the hosel and drill the remaing shaft out with a cobalt drill. I specify cobalt because a regular high speed drill bit would loose its edge very quickly. Drill speed for graphite is approx 180 rpm. and wear a mask.
                          the other important thing is to clamp the head in a fixture that itself is clamped down on the drill table. You don't want it to spin into you when/if the drill grabs.
                          NOW THAT IS WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!!
                          THANK YOU BL8D!!!

                          I WILL LOOK INTO THIS METHOD MORE.

                          I guess COBALT drill bit should be little less than shaft OD and finish with wire drill bit with low, very low rpm.


                          Comment


                          • #14
                            extra info-
                            after you cut off the shaft the next thing is to gauge the depth of the hosel's bore. A straightened coat hanger wire will fit down the shaft to check how deep you have to drill.Tape just short off that length on your drill. take your time.

                            if you don't have a drill press-method2-
                            Tap the shaft tip in the hosel with a 1/4-20 tap about 3/4" deep.(The ID of the graphite shaft will be close to the .201 needed for that tap size)
                            -thread a machine type bolt of 3" length(Allen head) into the shaft tip.
                            - heat the bolt shaft sticking above the hosel with a propane torch for 1 minute and wait for the heat to travel down and break the epoxy bond.(wait 30 seconds, twist and pull on the bolt with a vise-grip)

                            wrap the clubhead in a wet towel
                            Last edited by bl8d; May 31, 2018, 03:16 PM.
                            things change

                            Maga Lies Matter

                            Comment

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