I have a .355 hose and installing a .355 iron shaft

[Frepz]

need your guys expertise

will this work or do I need shims to make the glue bond strong?

[SwingingSticks]

A .355" shaft should fit snug in a .355" hosel. There is no reason to use shims. If there is some wriggle room or it seems to fit a bit loosely, you can beads, aluminum oxide blast, or fiberglass mesh tape to center the shaft, all depending on how much play there is in the hosel.

[Frepz]

Thank you for response. i have a titleist 660 and i used golf epoxy fron golfworks and when I played one the iron head flew off luckily no one was around or hit anything. i reshafted many irons and with no issues till this time. what type of epoxy do you use?

[SwingingSticks]

Generally, I use the golfworks 24hrs epoxy. I also use the golfworks 90min tour set epoxy (30min gel time) if clubs are needed by next day or within a few hours.
I have never had a club head come off using either epoxy.
My guess would be:
1) epoxy mixture was not thoroughly mixed properly or long enough.
2) the surface of the shaft tip and/or inside walls of the hosel had not been cleaned and prepped thoroughly. This part is vastly important. Old epoxy residue/dust will prevent new epoxy from adhering properly.
3) shaft & hosel does not fit snugly (too much play in the hosel. This will cause the shaft to not be centered and will create 1 side with too much epoxy and the other with very little to none, depending where the shaft is leaning.

It could be another reason, but the aforementioned 3 are the most common. Also keep in mind that it's possible (although unlikely) that the hosel had been reamed prior to fit parallel (.370) shafts. This would be very obvious as you can wriggle the shaft around in the hosel.

[Weirfan]

You do not use a shim in a .355 to .355 assemble unless the hosel was reamed which should be easy to tell as the fit will be quite loose.

If anything adding a shim can reduces the bond strength.

Failures result from a few things...in order of contribution relevance:
1. Improper preparation: this can include not cleaning the surfaces being glued properly. They need to be very clean...new heads can have cutting oil residue , pulled heads, epoxy residue ..both dust or dirt...drill or sand any residue in hosel to where all you see is bare metal, use a wire brush on a drill and clean again...use compressed air to blow out any dust or bang the head upside down on the workbench, ...finally use a qtip with acetone to wipe out the interior surface

shaft needs to be abraded/ sanded to remove any paint( graphite) and chrome ( steel) so there is no slippery or shiny surface...wipe clean with a damp rag.

2. Not spreading epoxy properly: use a liberal amount and coat the surface if the shaft that will be going in the hosel, insert and spin the head 3/4 times on the shaft to spread it evenly around. Clean off the excess quickly them Set club down and DO NOT MOVE or touch it until after the curing time of the epoxy has reached

3. Improper mix of epoxy or old epoxy...you need to mix in the proper amounts of the two parts , mix it well and make sure the epoxy has never been frozen and isn't past its shelf life. Toss Epoxy more than 1 year old.

4. Using the club before the epoxy has completely set.

if you find that the fit is a bit loose, ie: it has significant play around the shaft , use a SMALL amount of sugar, sand or shafting beads...these wont improve the bond but will help with centering.

GW epoxy is fine but i prefer Bramptons

[5hort5tuff]

Which Branptons epoxy do you use?

[bl8d]

I have not seen better prices for Brampton epoxy than these

https://www.valuegolf.com/epoxies

[Weirfan]

I use both the 5&10 cartridges for quick jobs and the 20/20

[Weirfan]

Quote function isnt working but im just about to order some from the place Bl8d posted. Aaron is great to deal with and will ship USPS to Canada