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Reshafting Irons Help!

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  • bl8d
    replied
    ^^^^ the 755 were highly regarded, and still command a good price for a 15yr old set.
    GolfAvenue has a set that, after taxes and free shipping,will still amount to $300.
    Good Irons never stop working. . The player OTOH.........

    Leave a comment:


  • TommyJ
    replied
    Originally posted by Cdntac View Post
    I'd just be buying new shafts again as opposed to modifying the heads --- because if you did, you'd most likely never be able to sell them again (at least at a respectable price).
    Good point for a set of more current irons, but what can a set of 755 heads be worth? Probably lucky to sell them for $75.

    Leave a comment:


  • TLT Dan
    replied
    More than happy to help out. Just be sure to book it as an appointment to be sure I am here.
    Length and lie should always be a priority.

    Leave a comment:


  • Newclubbuilder
    replied
    Originally posted by TLT Dan View Post
    This is your opportunity to get the lengths right. You don't want your short irons too short nor your long irons too long. Pay attention to this before disassembly to be sure your new build us right.
    Lie angles are just as important as length and lie go hand in hand.
    Thanks Dan!

    I'll be sure to check. Worst case your close by. I'm in Bowmanville

    Leave a comment:


  • LongLefty
    replied
    Originally posted by Weirfan View Post
    Agree with the above, failure is highly likely with only 1/2 inch of tip insertion, not to mention that the shaft will not play correctly to flex.

    reaming the heads sounds like the correct way to go. A proper reaming bit
    is required and available for purchase at GW.
    https://www.golfworks.com/spiral-flu...mers/p/gw0115/
    Strongly, recommended that you do this with a drill press if possible.

    before you go through this, do some measurements to make sure that the shafts are going to be long enough when fully seated. If they were tip trimmed it is quite possible they could come out shorter than "standard"
    Hahaha nice.

    Leave a comment:


  • TLT Dan
    replied
    This is your opportunity to get the lengths right. You don't want your short irons too short nor your long irons too long. Pay attention to this before disassembly to be sure your new build us right.
    Lie angles are just as important as length and lie go hand in hand.

    Leave a comment:


  • Newclubbuilder
    replied
    All good everyone. Seller refunded my money of the shafts and I went and bought the correct tip OD. Reshafting them next week after my final outdoor round of the year this weekend. Iíll have all winter in the simulator to dial them in. Cheers and thanks for all the help!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Cdntac
    replied
    I wouldn't buy any that had been modified like that. I know that it really shouldn't make a difference but for me, it would.

    Leave a comment:


  • Weirfan
    replied
    Originally posted by Cdntac View Post
    I'd just be buying new shafts again as opposed to modifying the heads --- because if you did, you'd most likely never be able to sell them again (at least at a respectable price).
    Reaming hosels should do nothing at all to the value of the heads. It does nothing to the aesthetics or playability. In fact to many, including myself, heads with .370 hosels are more desirable because they allow use of .370 parallel shafts which Offer greater customization. than .355 taper shafts.

    not that it shouldn't be disclosed, but without Removing the heads and using a set of calipers nobody would be able to even tell that the heads were reamed. After all you are taking out a very minimal amount of material from the bottom of the inside of the hosel ( which is already mainly .370 )

    it is a very, very minor modification, removing 15/1000's of an inch of material from about 1/2 an inch of the interior.
    Last edited by Weirfan; Oct 25, 2019, 08:15 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cdntac
    replied
    I'd just be buying new shafts again as opposed to modifying the heads --- because if you did, you'd most likely never be able to sell them again (at least at a respectable price).

    Leave a comment:


  • Weirfan
    replied
    Originally posted by Newclubbuilder View Post
    Yep I think I got ripped off. I only tried the 3 iron and spoke with the seller telling there are are some .355 shafts. Iíll have to check and see. If Iím lucky there only one or two which are .370
    The best way to tell what you have is to use a set of digital calipers (an inexpensive tool) and measure the OD ( outside diameter)

    The shafts you have could very well be .370 diameter shafts or as you alluded to in your op, .355 Taper shafts with the taper tips removed. Although this would be an unusual/uncommon practice and probably only used if somebody wanted to use .355 taper shafts in a .370 parallel hosel head. ( the much better and safer way versus a shim)
    Remember that taper shafts are just tapered and .355 in the distal 5/8 inch or so of the shaft and designed that way so they can ram them into taper hosels during mass assembly line production and they wont move and assembly can continue.

    either way, if you have .370 shafts ir tapers with the tips removed , making them essentially .370, your only recourse for using them in heads with taper hosels is reaming the heads or buying new shafts.
    Last edited by Weirfan; Oct 24, 2019, 09:40 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Newclubbuilder
    replied
    Yep I think I got ripped off. I only tried the 3 iron and spoke with the seller telling there are are some .355 shafts. Iíll have to check and see. If Iím lucky there only one or two which are .370

    Leave a comment:


  • Weirfan
    replied
    Originally posted by bl8d View Post

    If you ream the hosel the shafts will be too short and play too stiff.
    Bite the bullet and get the proper taper shafts for that model headr, which were one of Titelist better CB irons.
    All said and done, you are probably right ... easiest would be to buy different shafts.

    I will toss this out there to the op though....he could proceed with the reaming and soft step the shafts which would address the potential stiffness and length issue ....of course this means he would have one less shaft on the long iron end , but depending on what he has and if he doesn't need a 3 or 4 iron then this would be an option. Also he could buy 1 shaft additional shaft if he was one shaft short

    Leave a comment:


  • bl8d
    replied
    Originally posted by Newclubbuilder View Post
    Reshafting an older set of irons. HELP!

    I have a set of 755 Forged Titleist shaft tip is .355. The used shaft I bought which are from a set of titleist are a slightly larger tip (most likely were tipped to stiffen the shaft). They donít have more then 1/2Ē penetration into the club head. Is that enough or will I need to bore the heads a bit?
    Taper tip hosels require taper tip shafts to reach their full insert depth.

    looks like the shaft seller effed up, or got stiffed himself and got rid of shafts he couldn't use. (buyer beware)

    If you ream the hosel the shafts will be too short and play too stiff.
    Bite the bullet and get the proper taper shafts for that model headr, which were one of Titelist better CB irons.

    Leave a comment:


  • Weirfan
    replied
    Agree with the above, failure is highly likely with only 1/2 inch of tip insertion, not to mention that the shaft will not play correctly to flex.

    reaming the heads sounds like the correct way to go. A proper reaming bit
    is required and available for purchase at GW.
    https://www.golfworks.com/spiral-flu...mers/p/gw0115/
    Strongly, recommended that you do this with a drill press if possible.

    before you go through this, do some measurements to make sure that the shafts are going to be long enough when fully seated. If they were tip trimmed it is quite possible they could come out shorter than "standard"

    Leave a comment:

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