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Preserving Forged Irons

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  • Preserving Forged Irons

    Does anyone know what to do or use to prevent or lessen rusting on forged irons when stored over the winter. Thin layer of machine oil and put in a plastic baggie?
    This is only a problem now because for many years, I had matching sets of forged irons and wedges or forged irons and forged wedges(ie not part of a set), so they could all rust equally and I did not care. They would all get replaced when the time came for a new set.

    This year I ended up with Rogue Pro for my irons and Vokey for my 3 wedges. The Callaways are fine, they just have some surface scratches and will be good for years not looking any worse for wear.
    The Vokeys have similar scratches and dings, but have already started to rust(which btw, was never an issue with my first set of Hogan Apex Edge Pros-they never rusted even when dinged). I expect this, I just want to know if there is anything to do with them over the winter.
    thanks

  • #2
    Unfortunately the plating used these days is not as good as in the past and that is likely why your older set of forgings wore better. It really has nothing to do with the billet of forged steel but with the quality and thickness of the chrome plating.

    so what to do....
    1. Avoid nicks and dings in the irons:
    - use neoprene iron covers when on course and transporting ( remove when storing clubs)
    - avoid using the clubs on sandy soiled ranges
    - if possible don't play forged clubs from waste areas, bunkers , desert etc. ( all of our Phoenix group carries an extra older "desert" club to use as needed)

    2. Keep heads clean:
    - never use steel or wire brushes on them, only a plastic nail brush
    - clean faces , cavities and grooves clean of debris.....with a soft cloth, if you use a damp cloth, make sure to dry after with a soft dry towel

    3. Store properly when not in use
    - store in a dry warm area, not the trunk of a car or garage where temperature variations and condensation happen
    - remove neoprene covers between rounds and for storage
    - coat the heads with a thin layer of oil when storing


    - some people apply a chrome or steel polish, even coating of car wax or liquid glass protectant to their heads every so often.



    "Don't cry because it's over, Smile because it happened "

    Comment


    • #3
      Op Probally has raw black vokeys they rust itís what they are meant to do

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by wlorcb View Post
        Does anyone know what to do or use to prevent or lessen rusting on forged irons when stored over the winter. Thin layer of machine oil and put in a plastic baggie?
        This is only a problem now because for many years, I had matching sets of forged irons and wedges or forged irons and forged wedges(ie not part of a set), so they could all rust equally and I did not care. They would all get replaced when the time came for a new set.

        This year I ended up with Rogue Pro for my irons and Vokey for my 3 wedges. The Callaways are fine, they just have some surface scratches and will be good for years not looking any worse for wear.
        The Vokeys have similar scratches and dings, but have already started to rust(which btw, was never an issue with my first set of Hogan Apex Edge Pros-they never rusted even when dinged). I expect this, I just want to know if there is anything to do with them over the winter.
        thanks
        Clean them with Autosol Metal polish at the end of the year.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Geeve1008 View Post
          Op Probally has raw black vokeys they rust itís what they are meant to do
          agree. The black oxide finish is strictly cosmetic and wears down in no time to reveal the raw steel.
          A wax coat during the season will keep rust formation down.

          If you are planning on buying raw wedges, encourage an even layer of rust to form. I used to bury the heads for week in a pot of wetted vermiculite.
          Things change.

          Cobra Fly Z+ ProjectX Handcrafted 50LZ
          Cal Steelhead 3,5 RCH99firm
          Cleve Halo 19*hybrid s300
          Cleve TA3 4-Pw TTX100
          Cleve 53,57 s300
          Cal Tuttle

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by bl8d View Post

            agree. The black oxide finish is strictly cosmetic and wears down in no time to reveal the raw steel.
            A wax coat during the season will keep rust formation down.

            If you are planning on buying raw wedges, encourage an even layer of rust to form. I used to bury the heads for week in a pot of wetted vermiculite.
            Maltby's forged black heads (DBM) are far superior to any others I have seen. durability of the finish is fantastic, not to mention this is an incredible forged players cb.....

            the care of any forged iron head is the same, especially if you don't want rust, rust ( as you know) contrary to some beliefs , does nothing to improve spin
            Last edited by Weirfan; Nov 11, 2019, 06:56 PM.
            "Don't cry because it's over, Smile because it happened "

            Comment


            • #7
              Gun oil for me. I use them in between rounds on everything. Smells great too!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Geeve1008 View Post
                Op Probally has raw black vokeys they rust itís what they are meant to do
                Nope. Standard Tour Chrome

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by bl8d View Post

                  agree. The black oxide finish is strictly cosmetic and wears down in no time to reveal the raw steel.
                  A wax coat during the season will keep rust formation down.

                  If you are planning on buying raw wedges, encourage an even layer of rust to form. I used to bury the heads for week in a pot of wetted vermiculite.
                  Nope. Standard Tour Chrome

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Weirfan View Post
                    Unfortunately the plating used these days is not as good as in the past and that is likely why your older set of forgings wore better. It really has nothing to do with the billet of forged steel but with the quality and thickness of the chrome plating.

                    so what to do....
                    1. Avoid nicks and dings in the irons:
                    - use neoprene iron covers when on course and transporting ( remove when storing clubs)
                    - avoid using the clubs on sandy soiled ranges
                    - if possible don't play forged clubs from waste areas, bunkers , desert etc. ( all of our Phoenix group carries an extra older "desert" club to use as needed)

                    2. Keep heads clean:
                    - never use steel or wire brushes on them, only a plastic nail brush
                    - clean faces , cavities and grooves clean of debris.....with a soft cloth, if you use a damp cloth, make sure to dry after with a soft dry towel

                    3. Store properly when not in use
                    - store in a dry warm area, not the trunk of a car or garage where temperature variations and condensation happen
                    - remove neoprene covers between rounds and for storage
                    - coat the heads with a thin layer of oil when storing


                    - some people apply a chrome or steel polish, even coating of car wax or liquid glass protectant to their heads every so often.


                    Thanks. Will try some light oil over the winter. Already do all 3, except no way to remove the covers when being stored at the club.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Oil is a waste of time with wedges theyíre gonna wear itís what they do they get swapped out every 1-2 years anyways itís not going to effect performance in anyway

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'm far too lazy to bother with much in terms of care - I bought 'em to use 'em not to look at.

                        But this discussion has raised a question to me - if rust on wedges doesn't improve spin (as has been rumoured forever) then what about oil or wax? Isn't that going to kill some spin (that you've paid a lot of money for)?

                        Or do people oil/wax between rounds and clean them off before they play next?
                        "Confusion" will be my epitaph
                        ...Iggy

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Ignatius Reilly View Post
                          I'm far too lazy to bother with much in terms of care - I bought 'em to use 'em not to look at.

                          But this discussion has raised a question to me - if rust on wedges doesn't improve spin (as has been rumoured forever) then what about oil or wax? Isn't that going to kill some spin (that you've paid a lot of money for)?

                          Or do people oil/wax between rounds and clean them off before they play next?
                          rust ,as Weirfan pointed out, is a spin- myth.
                          I buried mine in wet vermiculite to get an even patine.

                          yes, oil/wax is a spin killer if left on.

                          ski wax works fine.

                          Things change.

                          Cobra Fly Z+ ProjectX Handcrafted 50LZ
                          Cal Steelhead 3,5 RCH99firm
                          Cleve Halo 19*hybrid s300
                          Cleve TA3 4-Pw TTX100
                          Cleve 53,57 s300
                          Cal Tuttle

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I have only player forged Mizuno irons for the last 10 years and never have a rust issue.
                            I do clean my clubs after every round with merely water and a plastic brush.
                            WITB: Sun Mountain 4.5LS
                            Titleist TS3 10.5 with Evenflow T1100 White 65 Stiff
                            Titleist TS2 19H with Evenflow White 90 Stiff

                            Titleist 818 H1 21 & 23 with Accra FX300H Stiff
                            Mizuno MP-18 MMC Fli-Hi 5i & 6i with Steelfiber i110cw X-Stiff
                            Mizuno MP-18 MMC 7-PW with Steelfiber i110cw X-Stiff
                            Mizuno JPX-900F 50* with Steelfiber i110cw X-Stiff
                            Cleveland RTX 54* & 58 Mid with Steelfiber i110cw X-Stiff
                            Seemore Platinum M7 Tour with SS Pistol Grip

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              What WEIRFAN said. I play with a 100 year old set of Tom Stewart iron irons from St. Andrews and rub some oil into the heads each month or so with an old toothbrush. I wipe the excess oil off with a rag but never clean them so as to remove ALL the oil. It makes little to no difference on contact but has preserved these clubs since the 19-teens. Keep them dry during and after the round and you ought to be just fine. Should you actually try the oil, please report back here in 80 years or so to let us know how it worked LOL!

                              Comment


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